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Selection and Purchasing

1. External Frame: The pack is hung on an external frame made of metal (or, in some modern alternatives, plastic).   We include these here mostly for historical reasons, as these were once the workhorses of the backpacking world.  These days, it's tough to find an external pack in any outdoors store, but they are still available by mail order.
    
2. Internal Frame: The pack is made somewhat rigid by internal bars or stays (often aluminum) which run the length of the pack along the hiker’s back. The rest of the pack is without any frame.
    
   

• Centre of Gravity: External frame packs generally place the load weight much higher (to the top of the head or higher). In this way, the hiker only needs to lean forward slightly to bring the pack’s weight over his/her centre of gravity; however, it also means that the hiker is "tippier". Beware the external frame pack that does not carry the load high; test it when loaded to see if it pulls back on the shoulders excessively.   Internal frame packs place the load much lower (to the top of the shoulders), but compensate for this by placing the load tighter to the body, thereby bringing it as near to the centre of gravity as possible. Beware of internal frame packs which are too large for the hiker or extremely deep from front to back. These packs will load with too much weight away from the hiker's centre of gravity and will pull on his/her shoulders.
   
• Balance: In open country, an external frame pack is preferable. However, in heavy bush, if skiing or climbing, or anywhere where balance is important, the internal frame pack hugs the body more closely and has less of a tendency to throw the hiker off balance.
   
• Capacity: External frame packs usually allow articles such as tents, sleeping bags, and foam mattresses to be attached externally. Internal frame packs are normally designed to have most equipment stored inside. Take this into consideration when comparing pack capacities. Allow for the fact that your tent and sleeping bag will almost certainly have to be stored inside an internal frame pack.
   
• Obstructions: If you know you are going to be hiking through dense bush or other tight places, an internal frame pack is less likely to become caught and behave as a hindrance, and it is better suited to ducking through tight spaces in a crouch position.
   
• General Guidelines: If money is no object, it is easy to find a pack of either type which will do the job very well. No matter which type you choose, be sure that it will allow for adjustment as you grow.
   
• Warning: No pack is any good to you if it does not fit. Buying a $400 pack does not guarantee comfort. Buying a pack which fits you does.

Materials and Features

1. Frame: should be welded aluminum (or alloy) tubing (external frames only). Look for strong joints. Set the pack on one corner and press down firmly on the diagonal corner. You should detect no flex or give.
    
2. Pack Material: Preferably heavy (8 oz.) Packcloth or heavy nylon.
    
3. Zippers: Heavy with cloth, leather, or cord “pulls” so that you do not need to touch the zipper itself in cold weather. Zippers should move easily, not binding or catching pack cloth. Zippers should have good “storm flaps” to protect the compartment from rain. Test those zippers which must go around corners to make sure that they can be opened and shut easily.
    
4. Hip Belt: Must be padded, the more heavily, the better. Remember, this is where 90% of the weight will be resting. Comfort is of the essence here. Check to see that the hip belt can be adjusted for the following:
   • How high the pack rides on the hiker. God didn't make us all the same.
   • The distance between the hip belt and the shoulder straps to accommodate different lengths of torso. On better packs this is can be accomplished by moving either the hip belt or the shoulder straps 
   • Girth: Make sure that the hip belt can be made small enough for the hiker’s waist. This is a particularly critical feature for younger hikers with small waists.
      
5. Shoulder straps: Should also be padded, although they do not need to be as heavily padded as the hip belt. Shoulder strap features to look for:
   • Sternum Strap: A strap running across the chest between the shoulder straps.  The sternum strap helps to distribute the pressure of the pack’s straps across the entire chest, thereby reducing the pack’s tendency to pull back the shoulders.
   • Adjustments for:
     • Length of strap
     • Height of the strap on pack (This also adjusts distance between hip belt and shoulder strap)
     • Distance of pack from shoulders. Some better packs have an added strap which allows this adjustment. This is a nice feature which allows the hiker to pull the pack closer to him/her to bring the weight closer to his/her centre of gravity.
     • Distance between shoulder straps. Some packs allow the top attachments of the shoulder straps to be moved closer together or farther apart.
     • Overall Adjustability: The more adjustable a pack is, the better chance that it will serve its owner comfortably for a number of years. This is particularly critical for adolescents approaching, or in the process of, a growth spurt.
        
6. Compartments: While the main pack may consist of one or two large compartments, look for several, smaller, external compartments to aid in keeping things organized. Beware, however, of compartments which “hang” from the pack by straps, ... These have a much greater tendency to become caught in branches and torn off than compartments which are sewn directly to the pack itself. Look for a compartment which is readily accessible and large enough to carry rain gear. This will allow access to rain gear without having to open the pack and expose its contents to the rain.
    
7. Places for External Attachments: Try to visualize how you will be able to accommodate all the essentials: tent, poles, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. Keep in mind that the sleeping pad, because it is quite rigid and wide, is often the most awkward item to attach to your pack.
    
8. Compression straps: Your pack should have some method of cinching tight your load. Straps are preferable to strings or cord. 1-inch (2.5 cm) straps are preferable to 3/4-inch (2 cm) straps. Compression straps are particularly crucial for internal frame packs so that the hiker can keep the load tight to his/her body.
    
9. Top Flap or Hood: Does the top flap adequately cover the pack, even when it is full? Does it pull down so that it overlaps the sides of the pack to give complete storm coverage?

1. Avoid purchasing a pack which is significantly oversized. There is no sense strapping a 90 litre monster capable of carrying an 80 lb. load on the back of a 100 lb. hiker. It won’t be a good match.
    
2. Consider borrowing: If you are not sure that backpacking will be for you, try it out first with a friend’s or neighbour’s pack, but be sure that you borrow a pack which fits you properly.
    
3. Buy a used pack: This reduces cost, and most packs can outlive one casual or disen­chanted backpacker, anyway. Be sure to look for the same features as you would in a new pack, particularly the padded hip belt and other features related to the comfort of the pack.
    
4. For families with multiple backpackers, buy in stages and hand down packs as they are outgrown. When the smallest child has outgrown the smallest pack, sell it to neighbours so that they don’t have to shell out big bucks.
    
5. For the young adolescent: Buy a smaller, cheaper pack, one that fits well but which might not have all the bells and whistles. Then, later, when you have outgrown the pack, and if you still enjoy backpacking, buy a good-quality adult pack that will last for many years.
    
6. For the older adolescent: If you are on the final stages of your growth spurt, you might consider purchasing a good-quality pack of a suitable adult size if you are sure you have developed a long-term interest in backpacking.

Fitting and Packing