outdoors.deoblog.com

 Cost:  ($90 to $250)
 

Selection and Purchasing

1. Down: Natures best insulator.
   • Warmth and Resistance to Moisture: For warmth and compactability, very few synthetic materials can rival down. Unfortunately nature provided the duck and goose with waterproofing to prevent their down from becoming wet, but most sleeping bag manufacturers do not. Once wet, down quickly loses it insulation ability.
     
   • Volume and Weight: Down is light and is very compressible, but regains its loft quite readily.
   • Cost: Down is one of the most expensive insulation materials. 
   • Life Expectancy:  A well cared for down bag may last you several decades
   • Cleaning: Down bags must be dry cleaned.
      
2. Quallofil, Hollofil, Polarguard HV or 3D, Polysoft, Hyperloft: These are a number of the various brand names for average quality synthetic fills.
   • Warmth and Resistance to Moisture: They tend not to be as warm as down, but they do a better job of retaining their insulation ability when they are damp or wet.
   • Volume and Weight: Expect to be carrying a bulkier heavier bag than you would if you were able to afford a down bag.
   • Cost: These materials offer the least expensive alternative when shopping for a warm bag. 
   • Life Expectancy:  Most synthetic bags will lose loft and deteriorate over time.  Expect no more than ten years of use.
   • Cleaning:  Some synthetic bags may be cleaned in a large front-load washer.

1. Most bargains aren’t.
2. Generally, as warmth increases so do weight, bulk and price. (Warmth is directly proportional to everything else.)
3. At a given warmth rating, as price decreases, weight and bulk increase. (Price is inversely proportional to weight and bulk.)
4. At a given weight and bulk, as warmth increases, so does price. (Warmth is directly proportional to price.)
5. And so on ...

1. Rectangular: The most common design in “department store” sleeping bags. They are roomy, but they use up more material than may be necessary to keep you warm. More material translates into bulk and weight. They also have more air space inside the bag, which can allow cold spots to develop and make the bag feel “drafty” and less comfortable.
2. Barrel: Barrel bags have some tapering at the foot end to lessen weight, bulk and draftiness, but they are roomier than mummy-style bags.  Barrel bags may or may not have hoods.
   
3.  Mummy: The bag is fitted to the shape of the human body, tapering at both head and feet. Most mummy bags include an integral hood which can be pulled around the face with a drawstring. They offer the best warmth/bulk ratio of the three styles, but campers need to become accustomed to rolling with the bag rather than in it.

1. Length: The bag should be at least 2 m (78 in.) long unless you know you will not grow beyond 5' 6".  If you know that you are not going to grow beyond this height, then a short bag is a good investment, since there will be less dead air space in the bag.
2. Draft Tubes on Zippers: Insulated flaps which prevent the sleeper from coming in direct contact with the zipper and prevent air and precious heat from seeping through the zipper.
3. Zippers: Should be plastic, not metal (cold!). Test zippers to see that they can be operated easily without binding or snagging the material around them.  Better bags have a stiffer band of material beside the zipper to prevent snagging.
4. Collars/Neck Yokes: Insulated flaps which wrap around the neck and shoulders to prevent drafts from entering the torso portion of the bag.
5. Hoods: Contribute significantly to the comfort level of the bag, reducing heat loss from the head, one of the most susceptible areas. If your bag does not have a hood, bring along a toque or other insulated hat to wear to bed. The hood should have a good draw-string system to tighten the bag around your face.
6. Stuff Sack: Should be adequate to hold your bag. If larger than necessary, it can also hold your wool hat, vest, flashlight, or other night time gear. It should also be waterproof. Very few are. Place a small garbage bag inside the stuff sack before stuffing your bag to protect the sleeping bag from getting wet.
7. No “Quilting” Seams: Any seam which is sewn through the insulation material will cause drafts and heat loss. Better bags rely on a system of internal baffles to keep insulation material in place.

1. Always do everything possible to keep your bag dry. When the bag is on or in your pack, it should always be waterproofed with a garbage bag, ... If you carry your bag on the outside of your pack, do no put the garbage bag outside the stuff sack, as it will be snagged and torn by branches and thorns.
2. When the weather is warm and dry and you are in camp, hang out your bag to air it out. This will ensure that moisture and condensation from your sweat will evaporate, and it will return the loft to the insulation of the bag. Do not leave a bag hanging out if you leave camp for any length of time. It only takes a minute of rain to soak a sleeping bag and make it very uncomfortable.
3. Never sleep with your head inside the bag. This may seem warmer, but later in the night, you will suffer from the dampness and condensation which makes your bag soggy.
4. Don’t be a Hero: Wear clothes to bed to add to the warmth of your bag. On cool nights, expect to wear at least your long underwear (or a pair of sweats) and a sweatshirt. Wear clothing that keeps the warmth fairly close to your body. (In other words, not that baggy flannel night shirt.) Synthetic clothing will keep you warmer than cotton.
5. Keep Your Bag Clean: By reserving, if possible, the same clean clothing to wear to bed each night.
6.  Make a Pillow: By stuffing your sleeping bag stuff sack with extra clothing. This is especially effective if you have a small stuff sack. If you get cold, the added clothing can be worn. Sure, your pillow gets smaller, but everything in life is a trade-off.
7. Avoid folding your bag or rolling it to put it in its stuff sack. This tends to distribute the insulation material unevenly within the bag. Always stuff your sleeping bag.

1. Store your bag by hanging it up over a hanger or cord, or purchase a large cotton storage bag and keep your bag in it.  Do not store your bag stuffed in its stuff sack!  Leaving the bag stuffed reduces its loft and insulation properties. Furthermore, storing a damp bag stuffed may ruin it.
2. As needed, clean the bag according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid washing your bag too often, even if it is machine washable. Each washing tends to break down or clump the insulating fibres and reduce loft and warmth. If you have access to a front-loading washer, use it; front-loaders are more gentle with sleeping bags than top loading washers with agitators.
3. Check the bag for any damage (rips, bad zippers, seams coming loose) and have them repaired before the next trip.