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Limiting Heat Loss, or Insulating the House:

• Next-to-the-skin: This should be a tight-fitting, stretchy, breathable, synthetic fabric, such as polypropylene or woven polyester. Fabric that fits snugly traps warm air next to the skin and prevents cold air spots. This layer should stretch from your feet to your neck: liner socks, tights/long underwear, liner gloves or mini-mitts, and a long-sleeved undershirt. It not only serves to keep you warm; it also keeps you dry by transporting perspiration away from the skin toward the outer layers. This prevents the “clammy” feeling which can make you chilled, even when are quite warm.
• The Insulating Layer: This is the second layer, worn over the first. Ideally, it will consist of polyester fleece, like Polartec, Dyersburg Fleece, or Yukon Fleece. Alternatives to polar fleeces include synthetic knits and wool. The job of this layer is to trap air and provide insulation value without adding too much weight. Synthetic polar fleeces also absorb very little moisture, aiding in the transport of perspiration away from the body. This layer covers your body from head to foot: toque or fleece hood, fleece jacket or pullover, fleece or knit mitts/gloves, fleece pants, and insulating wool or synthetic socks. Note: this layer of your clothing is very poor at preventing cold air from infiltrating if there is any breeze whatsoever. Fleece clothing is a very poor insulator unless worn in conjunction with a windbreak layer. When selecting clothing for either of the insulating layers, look for some of these features:
  • Bottoms with high waist bands to help cover the small of the back
  • Tops with long backs to help keep the kidneys and bum warm.
  • Elastic or drawstrings at the cuff and hems to help seal in heat.
• More insulation: Depending on the severity of the cold and your level of activity, you may need to add more insulation, particularly to certain areas of the body. You may beef up the insulation of the trunk with a fleece or down vest or jacket. Or, you may need to add to the to the insulation around your head - always a critical area - with a fleece or knit balaclava. Other areas sometimes need attention. If your insulating layers allow draughts down your neck, you may need to add a neck gaiter or wear a turtleneck.
• Sealing out the elements: The final layer is your windbreak layer. This is the layer which prevents cold air from infiltrating the layers underneath and allows them to effectively perform their job. In scientific terms, the windbreak layer prevents heat lost though convection. The insulating layers minimize heat lost though radiation. When selecting a garment for the windbreak layer, look for these qualities:
  • A fabric with a high thread count and a tight weave to prevent air from infiltrating to the layers beneath.
  • Considerable overlap where pants and jacket meet. Longer jackets are warmer than bomber style jackets.
  • Drawstrings, elastic, or velcro closures on all cuffs and hems so that cold air can be “sealed” out. This makes an incredible difference! A jacket which is just hanging open at the bottom is not nearly as warm as a jacket with an elastic drawstring which allows it to be drawn shut against the pants (and the elements). The same goes for cuffs, necks, and ankles.
  • A waistband drawstring on the jacket. This allows for smaller pockets of air to be trapped in the jacket and reduces draughts and cold spots considerably.

Your layers at night

• The tent: keeps snow and wind off of you. Essentially, it performs the same function as the windbreak layer of your clothing. One thing which many people find hard to believe: leave your tent door and back window open slightly to allow some air to move through the tent. This will help reduce condensation and dampness in the tent. A damp tent can lead to wet sleeping bags and very cold campers.
• The sleeping pad: This is an absolutely essential component. It reduces heat loss to the frozen ground beneath the tent floor. A Thermarest or other self-inflating foam pad is a bonus when winter camping, since it provides considerably more insulation than a closed-cell foam pad. If you do not have a self-inflating pad, consider carrying two closed-cell pads to increase the insulation between you and the ground. Note: you can also make use of your sleeping pad during the day, by using it to sit on while cooking meals, ...
• The sleeping bag: There is just no getting around it; unless you shop carefully and invest some money in an appropriate sleeping bag, you will spend some very cold nights winter camping. Most bags purchased in department stores will prove unsatisfactory. A close-fitting mummy bag is essential to avoid cold spots.
• In the bag: You need to adjust to your own tolerance for cold and your own sleeping bag, but here are some ideas of how to regulate your temperature in your sleeping bag:
  • Begin by wearing your next-to-skin layer. This will trap warm air next to the skin and prevent you from getting a chill when you touch a cold spot in your bag as you shift in the night. Include a pair of clean, dry socks in this layer, unless your feet are hot.
  • If you begin to get cool, add your toque, even if your sleeping bag has a hood.
  • Take your other clothing to bed with you. Whatever you are not using for a pillow should be in your sleeping bag. Stuff your fleece jacket, fleece pants, gloves, toque, ... in your bag. If your boots have removable liners, include these. This has several advantages:
    • If you get cold   in the night, the clothing you need to add will be handy and warm. You may not even have to unzip your bag to put it on.
    • In the morning, you can climb into warm clothing. This makes getting out of your sleeping bag much less uncomfortable.
    • Your clothing   will fill up any extra air pockets in your sleeping bag and prevent the formation of cold spots.
  • Add clothing as necessary to keep comfortable and warm.